It’s not all the time simple to recollect, amid the countless hubbub about bagels, pizza slices, and fat-cat steak palaces, that New York Metropolis is a port city, and for a lot of our culinary historical past probably the most prized delicacies within the metropolis’s eating places got here from the ocean. Due to the overfishing of the oceans, and the way back demise of the harbor’s nice fish and shellfish populations, there hasn’t been a lot excellent news to report from the waterfront in current a long time, however recently we’ve been sensing a welcome uptick in worthy new venues to go to on your repair of a $28 lobster roll, say, or an old school, impeccably rendered, expense-account piece of Dover sole. Right here, with out additional ado, is our checklist of the very best upscale seafood eating places on the town (sushi excluded).
2. The FultonPier 17, 89 South St., nr. Fulton St.; 212-838-1200
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Jean-Georges Vongerichten has made a profession of taking drained outdated formulation (French cooking, Asian fusion, farm to desk) and standing them artfully on their head, and at this spectacular new vacation spot restaurant down on Pier 17 at South Avenue Seaport he does the identical factor for that the majority finicky and exacting of restaurant genres — seafood. You’ll be able to receive a fish or crustacean dish for each event at this glorious waterside institution, starting from a first-rate lunchtime crispy fish taco, to bowls of lobster-rich Cantonese-style “Longevity Noodles” for dinner, together with a complete completely cooked black sea bass baked to order in a fish-shaped pastry crust. Add within the million-dollar seafood lover’s view, which stretches from the enduring bridges to the north (Brooklyn, Manhattan, and many others.), down south to the ferries and sailboats chopping from side to side within the open harbor, and you’ve got one of many best new seafood joints on the town.
3. Saint Julivert Fisherie264 Clinton St., at Verandah Pl., Cobble Hill; 347-987-3710
The announcement of a brand new Alex Raij and Eder Montero restaurant is all the time a contented event, however when the enjoyment of seafood is the precise theme in these seafood-challenged instances, it’s trigger for particular celebration. Relying on the season and availability, you would possibly discover all kinds of unusual and scrumptious little wonders served up within the tiny, railcar-size Cobble Hill eating room, together with silvery anchovies plated with moons of unmelted vanilla butter, bowls of risotto folded with chopped conch and smoked eel, and steamy helpings of that ugly-delicious Catalan speciality, goose barnacles, served with correct ceremony in a fold of white linen. In comparison with the good seafood palaces throughout the river, the costs are a cut price. And in the event you’re hankering for a style of beefsteak in spite of everything this seafood bounty, name for the Portuguese “Prego” steak sandwich, which the kitchen will gown with a multitude of fats fried oysters surf and turf-style for an additional charge.
4. Marea240 Central Park S., nr. Broadway; 212-582-5100
Michael White’s well-known midtown pasta-and-seafood flagship falls somewhat decrease on our newly up to date checklist for the same old causes — elevated competitors, ever-rising costs, and the sense, as with all profitable, broadly imitated method, that you just’ve seen most of those methods earlier than. However the high quality of the well-known crudi and Mediterranean-themed pasta creations is similar as ever, and our favourite time to go to remains to be at lunchtime, when the temper within the eating room feels much less formal and daylight filters into the tall home windows via the display of bushes within the park throughout the road. The $67 two-course enterprise lunch nonetheless buys a style of White creations like the good house-grilled octopus, or a tangle of freshly made, completely al dente tagliolini tossed with Manila clams, which, when you consider it, is a modest worth to pay to be transported for a New York minute or two on to some sun-dappled (and, sure, radically overpriced) seafood trattoria perched on the Amalfi cliffs, excessive above the blue blue Mediterranean sea.
5. Lake Pavilion60-15 Most important St., at Horace Harding Expy., Flushing; 718-886-6693
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The voluminous, largely Cantonese menu at this cavernous, bustling Flushing standby is stuffed with all kinds of wonders, like slippery piles of little sea snails or Manila clams smothered in black-bean sauce, shell-less flash-fried jumbo prawns as massive and candy as plums, and platters of Maine lobster tossed within the thinnest scrim of corn starch with scallions and chunks of ginger that you could style behind your nostril. As with every nice seafood institution, the secret is demand, which results in freshness, which results in an countless array of selection, together with 5 varieties of crab cooked a large number of various methods, relying on the season. Should you’re feeling flush, we advocate the Dungeness monsters, which arrive at your desk kind of direct from the chilly waters of Alaska by means of JFK, sizzled in a crunchy, vaguely candy batter, like some unusual, savory seafood model of funnel cake.
6. Pearl Oyster Bar18 Cornelia St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-691-8211
Like David Chang and his ramen, Rebecca Charles didn’t invent the traditional Atlantic coast oyster bar. However she deserves credit score for reimagining it for a brand new technology of eaters, and her reliable, extremely profitable template — traditional, comforting recipes imbued with first-class components and approach, and a contact of New York largesse — has been imitated, not simply within the realm of seafood, however all around the endlessly increasing haute-comfort-food map. The vaunted home lobster roll nonetheless will get all of the press, and for good purpose. However the menu is dotted with a veritable murderers’ row of dependable favorites, just like the Pearl Caesar and the smoky, bacon-rich clam chowder, in addition to the opposite bountiful, less-publicized lunchtime sandwiches (the fried-oyster roll, the pan-fried fish sandwich) and the smoked Atlantic salmon, which is plated at this outdated downtown establishment with a unfastened, buttery johnnycake as a substitute of blinis and a sublime spoonful of crème fraîche.
7. The Pool99 E. 52nd St., nr. Park Ave.; 212-375-9001
There’s a hushed, placid, nearly somnolent vibe to the proceedings at this Main Meals Group seafood palace within the outdated 4 Seasons advanced, it’s true. However Wealthy Torrisi’s diligent, extravagantly priced menu has many admirable qualities (the chilled oysters over mounds of ice, the elegant uni-toast service, the traditional Dover sole), and so do Stephanie Prida’s glorious desserts (frozen-yogurt parfait, the Meyer-lemon meringue). The Park Avenue costs are typically insane, after all, however when you have the sources and high-end seafood is your specific dependancy, it’s value a visit.
8. Estiatorio Milos125 W. fifty fifth St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-245-7400
There are two branches of this elegant, upmarket Mediterranean-themed seafood chain within the metropolis now, however the one we like is the midtown authentic, particularly at lunchtime, when the ability crowd from the encircling towers fills the tables with their tailor-made fits, double-folded cuffs, and impressively giant watches. Glimmering bounty from world wide is organized over mounds of ice behind the austere room, like at a worldwide fish market, and the customized is for the polished, silver-tongued waiters to ask clients to say their entrée earlier than it’s portaged to the kitchen. The menu lists costs by the pound, nonetheless, so in the event you’re not paying, let your host select. In any other case, the $32 prix-fixe lunch menu stays among the finest offers in midtown.
9. Fish Cheeks55 Bond St., nr. Bowery; 212-677-2223
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This colourful, playfully embellished little fish home on Bond Avenue is run by the Suansilphong brothers, two achieved cooks from the north-central a part of Thailand, who joined forces a few years again after making stops in top-flight kitchens round Asia and New York. It’s not an elaborate menu by Thai requirements, however the totems of that nation’s nice seafood canon (a wealthy coconut-crab curry from the south, platters of tiger prawn “karee” served over a mattress of wetly scrambled eggs, nourishing terrines of “po tak” seafood soup spiked with galangal and lime leaf) are faithfully reproduced right here. Should you’re out there for a bigger group slap-up feed, we advocate one of many banquet-style “chef’s selection” choices.
10. Grand Central Oyster BarGrand Central Terminal, decrease stage, 89 E. forty second St., at Vanderbilt Ave.; 212-490-6650
The service had gone all to hell the final time we bellied as much as our favourite seat on the jap finish of the unique bar at this nice landmarked area, though for atmosphere alone, this seminal New York restaurant remains to be value a go to. Just a few die-hard lunchtime regulars stay within the largely tourist-filled eating room with its signature red-square tablecloths and sky-high costs, however the authentic bar and its surrounding counters are the place to be. On day you will get an honest mess of contemporary Lengthy Island cherrystones, and that the majority regal of all ye olde New York concoctions the oyster pan roast remains to be made to order the old school manner by the countermen of their white paper hats, with half a dozen Blue Factors, a sprinkling of paprika, a splash of Worcestershire, and flagons of wealthy nation cream.
11. Barca44 Navy Pier Ct., nr. Entrance St., Stapleton; 718-556-9300
David Pasternack’s lately rebooted model of Esca appeared like a pale, barely harried model of its former self once we dropped in for dinner the opposite week, so in the event you’re on the lookout for a fast repair of the grasp’s two-fisted Mediterranean cooking, we advocate a visit out to this polished waterfront restaurant on Staten Island. The much-imitated crudo creations (fluke wearing season with contemporary figs, thick cuts of untamed salmon touched with black-garlic romesco) have somewhat of the identical elegant magic as on the authentic Esca way back, and so do lots of the different hearty classics (crispy calamari with little wheels of fried jalapeño, complete roasted branzino, a wonderful linguini alla vongole tossed with bits of pancetta), all of which you’ll be able to take pleasure in whereas gazing out on the chef’s favourite striper fishing grounds beneath the distant Verrazzano Bridge.
12. Mar at Mercado Little Spain10 Hudson Yards, entrance on thirtieth St. at Tenth Ave.; 646-495-1242
It’s not Barcelona, precisely, or a desk at some parasol-shaded restaurant by the Bay of Biscay, however in season you will get a pleasant serving to of razor clams on the bar of this José Andrés outlet within the glorious Mercado Little Spain meals corridor in Hudson Yards, and the gambas al ajillo are served head-on within the traditional fashion and scattered with loads of frizzled garlic. Different Spanish-themed specialties embrace tapas-style plates of fried fish and an occasional particular of chilled almond soup dappled with child white shrimp, however don’t miss the big-ticket arroz-for-two gadgets, particularly the good salver of darkish, creamy squid-ink rice that’s served with beneficiant spoonfuls of fresh-whipped alioli delivered to the desk, identical to again within the outdated nation, in a ceramic mortar.
13. The Clam420 Hudson St., at Leroy St.; 212-242-7420
Numerous fake ye-olde-neighborhood seafood institutions have popped up round city in recent times, however this cozy, comfortably dependable Hudson Avenue restaurant is the one we want was across the nook from our house. Mike Worth, who can also be a companion within the neighborhood mainstay Market Desk, specializes within the comfort-food canon of the Atlantic coast, which suggests plateaux of raw-bar bounty, bowls of Lengthy Island steamers served with wedges of toast, a predictably stiff, nourishing New England clam chowder, and spaghetti tossed with extra clams.
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